MILAN - Gianni Versace, king of rock 'n' romance on the runway, is drained. Yet after three sleepless nights and the day of his spring/summer '92 presentation, he somehow finds the energy to explain his approach to fashion design.
"Many people are afraid of fashion," Versace sighs. "Afraid to expose themselves. But they dream of dressing like Cher. I am sure of it."
And so he stretches beyond the bright, shapely suits and wildly printed blouses and scarves that have become Versace classics, to bejeweled bras and crystal-encrusted bustiers
He creates clothes for the who's who of Hollywood and the pop music world: Madonna, Sophia Loren, Barbra Streisand, Candice Bergen, Jane Fonda, Cher, Rod Stewart, Tina Turner, Bruce Springsteen, Melanie Griffith.
"They are my friends - Elton John, David Bowie, Eric Clapton, latex catsuits, Michael Jackson," says the 45-year-old designer, leaning on an Art Deco dining table in his 15th century palazzo.
"But that's just one side of my fashion. I like to dress intellectuals, everyone - from the chic to the shock."
And they were there at his spring show. Eric Clapton tapped his foot to the rock 'n' roll beat, while socialite Ivana Trump sat demurely in the front row, clad in a snugly belted yellow and black Versace dress.
They watched while the world's most beautiful models came down the runway in souped-up denims and classics-gone-crazy, all inspired by the "beautiful, magical women" Versace saw in the local bordello when he was a boy in Calabria.
Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford and Yasmeen Chauri stormed down the catwalk in open denim blouses and silk tutus, and an endless parade of jean jackets. They came in pink, mint, baby blue, patterned with starfish and seashells, embellished with brocade, mixed with white jeans, black jeans, pastel jeans, slung with gold hip belts, worn with red leather bras studded with gold nail heads or covered in glitter.
Lengths of silk bearing romantic images from Fragonard paintings were wrapped around their breasts or sewn up into blouses and jackets. They slithered along in reptile print catsuits, and leopard spotted blazers and tiger print vests, worn with a "queen-of-the-jungle" attitude.
The show was a hit. Small wonder, then, that business is booming.
"In America we doubled our business last year," says Versace, dressed in a dark suit and baby blue turtleneck.
Worldwide sales are well over $700 million, 12 per cent up over last year. He has 120 boutiques around the world, including a women's wear shop in Hazelton Lanes run by Catherine and Stephanie Hill of Chez Catherine, and a men's store on Hazelton Ave.
Those who can't afford the signature collection can get the same mood in less expensive fabrics by shopping Versace Versus, a secondary collection available at Giorgio Femme on Bloor St. W. There's also the Instante collection, priced between the ready-to-wear and Versus lines. It's sold at Donna Elena Boutique on Cumberland Ave.
Versace's connections to Hollywood have no doubt helped his success. Prince, Sting, Don Johnson, Phil Collins and Elizabeth Taylor have all been guests at his lush Lake Como villa.
After Madonna talked Michael Jackson into revamping his image, he approached Versace for a new look. The designer sketched up some colorful leggings printed with the pop star's face, and the new Jackson will be unveiled during the release of his upcoming video and album.
Versace is also making a jacket for Taylor bearing images of her in different film roles. This is after tailoring the wedding tuxedo for her new husband Larry Fortensky.
"He wore the white tuxedo. I sent the white and the gray which was more chic. But what are you going to do? These people are so capricious and they put on what they want. But he is a nice man."
Despite his rock 'n' roll connections and rumors to the contrary, Versace claims that his private life is tranquil. He celebrated his most recent show by going home alone and curling up with a book.
His palazzo, a stone's throw from the famous La Scala Opera house in the heart of the chic Montenapoleone shopping triangle, is where Versace lives, works, eats and sleeps fashion.
"My life is very quiet. I swim, I escape to the country. The moment I finish a show I want to leave and close the gate in Como and be with my flowers and my dog. I have such a beautiful villa where I really feel happy. When I look at the water on the lake, I am happy. I don't need a lot."
But he hardly lives a Spartan life. The palazzo, ironically a former convent, has more rooms than his assistants can count. He lives in a main floor apartment looking out on to pink geraniums and a forest of green beyond.
He is up at 7:30 every morning, rising out of a 14th century bed which once belonged to the Medicis. He works out in a first floor gym, and is through three newspapers by the time he finishes breakfast.
He works very closely with his sister Donatella, who consults on the collection, does all the accessories, and follows the licences. Donatella's husband Paul Beck is chief assistant for menswear. Brother Santo is chairman and managing director.
Together, they have come up with the idea of a new Signature line. Following the example of Hermes and Chanel, they will make available a perpetual collection of Versace classics.
"Customers were coming in search of the mask-printed shirt from two years ago, requesting the studded bags or neo-Baroque print scarf - all elements of my collections which have become status symbols and above all, classic examples of my style . . . It's a kind of best sellers catalogue, which will always be at the customer's disposal."
Versace has also recently become the target of copyists, but he doesn't seem to mind. "I like to be followed. It means your fashion is good. Sometimes I get mad and say, 'Why did they copy so fast?' But who cares? At least they copy you. I'm more sad when they don't copy me. It means I'm no good."
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