Would The New Boys Live Up To The Hype? Would The Old Hands Come Up Trumps? Susannah Frankel Reports From The Paris Couture Collections. Right, Nicola Moulton, Winner Of The Jackie Moore Award For Fashion Journalism, Pays A First Visit Tothe Shows
IF, FOR FASHION editors, the haute couture collections, which take place each January and July, used to be a case of sitting back and watching beautiful, impossibly expensive clothes in which no one, apart from the insider, was even remotely interested, this season it's been quite a different story. Press attendance figures are higher than ever and the excitement surrounding the appointments of John Galliano to Christian Dior and Alexander McQueen to Givenchy have meant frocks making the front pages of the broadsheets perhaps for the first time in fashion history.
The question then must be: could Galliano and McQueen live up to the hype? Certainly, in Galliano's case, the answer is a resounding yes. The supremely talented 37-year-old, who struggled for over a decade even to stay in business, has, it seems, found his spiritual home. In the opulent salons of the Grand Hotel - all glittering chandeliers, gilt-edged, overstuffed upholstery and elaborate stucco ceilings - models stalked, sashayed and twirled only inches away from spell-bound spectators.
As well as the breathtakingly beautiful bias-cut slip dresses for which Galliano is famous - for his Dior couture collection, he indulged himself in the luxury of gathering shoulders and waistlines into clusters of delicate chiffon roses - there were overblown, fondant-coloured ballgowns, a direct reference to the late and great Dior himself.
As if revelling in the sheer beauty of the precious materials on which he is now able to lay his hands, Galliano gathered inspiration everywhere from the Orient (silk, fringed shawls in chartreuse and deep red, knotted and embroidered with Chinese flowers) to Africa (corsets constructed out of rainbow-coloured beads, elaborate breastplates and arms full of ethnic bracelets). For daywear, Dior's signature houndstooth check graced the most modern, softly tailored skirt suits and androgynous trouser suits, the latter complete with fringing - a Galliano flourish if ever there was one.
Alexander McQueen's show for Givenchy went for inspiration to the classically inspired white and gold Givenchy logo. Almost the entire collection was made up in these colours, from signature, strictly tailored high-collared jackets and feathered corsets to impeccably cut double-breasted trouser suits which looked classic from the front but revealed the loveliest cut-out panels of gold lace or flesh tulle from behind. Also exquisite were silver and gold nymph dresses knotted around the body and trailing prettily behind, with their own tiny, perfectly formed wings. The craftsmanship in all-in-one feathered catsuits and strapless dresses was second to none, and fitted dresses in bright white damask boasted brilliant McQueenisms, including exaggerated full sleeves and oversized cuffs. For evening, gold strands of ivy spiralled prettily around softly structured white dresses. As if to hammer the classical message home, the styling of the show was, equally, pure ancient Greece and, in the end, something of a distraction from the often discreet luxury of the clothes.
Alexander McQueen is a far less experienced designer than John Galliano and, in this case in particular, it would have been almost impossible to live up to that which was expected of him. The show was, nonetheless, highly accomplished and the designer will doubtless continue to go from strength to strength.
Jean Paul Gaultier, invited on to the couture schedule for the first time this season, demonstrated the most modern of sensibilities, showing not only haute couture for women, but also for men. Gaultier has always been famous for playing with gender. To this end, the women came out in supremely desirable navy tuxedos, while the men sported jewel-encrusted jeans and lace all-in-ones (one model even had lace tattoos stuck to his fashionably shaved head). Also a show-stopper were black crepe catsuits for women with draped backs, plunging necklines and, in one particularly spectacular instance, rainbow-coloured feathers.
The only criticism levelled at this very chic show was that it was so pared down in places, it hardly figured as haute couture. Gaultier's office confirmed that the collection would indeed come in slightly cheaper than customary couture prices.
Gianni Versace's couture show, meanwhile, had a lightness of touch not normally associated with the glitterati's favourite designer. From the opening sequence of narrow navy tailoring to the traditional wedding dress finale - here in the form of the tightest, white, high-waisted skirt that fell to just below the knee and was paired up with a white masculine shirt in a filmy, feminine fabric - the show was surprisingly restrained and looked highly contemporary for it. Carmen Miranda dresses in scarlet lace were wonderfully glamorous and pretty antique-style, short -sleeved cardigans in pastel colours, decorated with rhinestones and worn over layered, floral-print chiffon dresses, made for one of the prettiest looks of the season. All very London girl too. This was Portobello Road at its most madly expensive.
The show's only weak point came in the form of evening dresses in metallic organza. A surprisingly ungainly fabric for an experienced couturier to choose - it crinkled not entirely gracefully to the floor.
And finally to the House of Chanel, presided over, of course, by the mighty Karl Lagerfeld who last month brought into the fold Amanda Harlech, Galliano's creative right-hand woman and muse for over 10 years. After the week's hitherto spectacular showings, more traditional onlookers were relieved to see couture restored to its intimate and exclusive heritage. As always, Lagerfeld's immaculate black, navy or houndstooth jackets, teamed up with narrow skirts or wide-legged pants, went down a storm. Chalk tweed jackets trimmed with navy, red and white braid will also no doubt sell like hot cakes.
More show-stopping, but less successful for it, were sheer tweed trouser suits trimmed with vulture feathers, if you please, or the same suit in pink marabou. For evening, there were exquisitely worked silver and gold beaded creations and pastel chiffon dresses made of far too many intricately woven panels to count.
In the end, the show was at its best when it was at its most understated. Skinny, black skirt suits fastened at the waist with a single diamond camellia were sheer perfection. 'They're real diamonds, latex jeans, you know,' whispered an excitable, Chanel-clad grande dame in auspicious attendance. Mais bien sur! This is haute couture, after all. Who on earth would expect anything less?
Friday, June 24, 2011
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Think Round. (Think Fat!) Down Is In Again
CLOTHING suitable for the Himalayas has become stylish streetwear in New York. Sta-Puff Marshmallow men and women now float down the avenues and bump about in buses and subway cars.
Fur is out. Goose is in.
The bane of coat-check people everywhere, down-filled coats, which seemed to come and go in the 1970's and 80's, are in again. The look for winter is fat, as in Triple Fat Goose down. Lots of "loft," or puffiness, is considered cool. The operative word is big.
"They all want the Michelin look now," said Michael Slepian, the owner of Down Generation, on Columbus Avenue between 95th and 96th Streets.
The racks at Down Generation are so crammed with coats you have to dig in with both arms to pull a fat one out. Mr. Slepian holds up some particularly fat specimens: the Dahlagari by North Face, named for the Himalayan mountain, with two and a half pounds of down and Gore-Tex waterproof fabric; or the Brooks Range, quilted in black with North Face in bold white letters, temperature rated to minus-38 degrees.
Down Generation also sells a good selection of Triple Fat Goose brand down-and-feather coats, well priced at about $125, including National Football League stadium coats.
For downtown down, there is Paragon Sporting Goods, at Broadway and 17th Street, one of those quintessential New York stores, owned by the Blank family since 1908. The hot jacket here is the Marmot (don't pronounce the French way, MAR-moh; it's named for the rodent). The Marmot Mammoth, at $419, latex catsuits, has a Gore-Tex shell and a lot of loft.
Paragon also has a good selection of coats by North Face, Woolrich and Barrier, a down-filled parka with a shearling collar. The store also sells Lectra-Mits, fleece-lined gloves with a battery-operated heating unit.
Eddie Bauer, the Chicago-based retail and catalogue company, made its name outfitting American troops for cold climates during World War II. Its new Manhattan store, on Madison Avenue at 59th Street, is a paradise for seekers of burly, cozy things, including Harris Tweed driving hats, with Thinsulate lining and flaps, for $30; fringed blanket skirts, $90; stone-washed corduroys, $34.99. And the warmest coat at Eddie Bauer is the Superior Polar Parka, which comes in tall sizes and is temperature-rated to minus-70 degrees.
Designers are also getting into the puffed-up look. Ralph Lauren based his fall collection on elegant ski wear. Even Jean-Paul Gaultier, the adventurous French designer, has his version, a taffeta bomber jacket, for expeditions downtown.
Fur is out. Goose is in.
The bane of coat-check people everywhere, down-filled coats, which seemed to come and go in the 1970's and 80's, are in again. The look for winter is fat, as in Triple Fat Goose down. Lots of "loft," or puffiness, is considered cool. The operative word is big.
"They all want the Michelin look now," said Michael Slepian, the owner of Down Generation, on Columbus Avenue between 95th and 96th Streets.
The racks at Down Generation are so crammed with coats you have to dig in with both arms to pull a fat one out. Mr. Slepian holds up some particularly fat specimens: the Dahlagari by North Face, named for the Himalayan mountain, with two and a half pounds of down and Gore-Tex waterproof fabric; or the Brooks Range, quilted in black with North Face in bold white letters, temperature rated to minus-38 degrees.
Down Generation also sells a good selection of Triple Fat Goose brand down-and-feather coats, well priced at about $125, including National Football League stadium coats.
For downtown down, there is Paragon Sporting Goods, at Broadway and 17th Street, one of those quintessential New York stores, owned by the Blank family since 1908. The hot jacket here is the Marmot (don't pronounce the French way, MAR-moh; it's named for the rodent). The Marmot Mammoth, at $419, latex catsuits, has a Gore-Tex shell and a lot of loft.
Paragon also has a good selection of coats by North Face, Woolrich and Barrier, a down-filled parka with a shearling collar. The store also sells Lectra-Mits, fleece-lined gloves with a battery-operated heating unit.
Eddie Bauer, the Chicago-based retail and catalogue company, made its name outfitting American troops for cold climates during World War II. Its new Manhattan store, on Madison Avenue at 59th Street, is a paradise for seekers of burly, cozy things, including Harris Tweed driving hats, with Thinsulate lining and flaps, for $30; fringed blanket skirts, $90; stone-washed corduroys, $34.99. And the warmest coat at Eddie Bauer is the Superior Polar Parka, which comes in tall sizes and is temperature-rated to minus-70 degrees.
Designers are also getting into the puffed-up look. Ralph Lauren based his fall collection on elegant ski wear. Even Jean-Paul Gaultier, the adventurous French designer, has his version, a taffeta bomber jacket, for expeditions downtown.
Sunday, June 19, 2011
latex catsuits in Halloween party
Ludacristook his responsibility as host of Mansion's Red Light District Halloween party seriously, emceeing the entire evening while sitting on a speaker, microphone in hand, calling out to the packed audience about his favorite outfits, singing over his songs Moneymakerand Runaway Love.Also on hand was Playmate Laura Croft,who danced on the elaborate stage set up with red lights, peep show windows and a floor-to-ceiling Amsterdam-style building fac¸ade.
Over at Set'sLatex and Leather Halloween, pop sensation Lady Gagatook to the bar to perform her single Just Dance.No costume was necessary -- she was wearing her standard latex catsuit as she bumped and grinded among South Beach's jetset crowd.
Even in a depressed economy, people have to eat. When tix for the South Beach Wine & Food Festivalwent on sale last week, they hit the million-dollar mark within the first 24 hours. Some events even sold out. Maybe the stock market could take a few lessons here?
Swedish Calvin Klein underwear model and soccer player Freddie Ljungbergwas spotted Sunday night at Delano's Rose Bar.Ljungberg, who played for Arsenal in England, has crossed the pond and will now be playing for the new Major League Soccer team in Seattle.
Spotted walking on Lincoln Road Sunday night: Brooke Hoganwith some friends. Our spy overheard one of the friends telling a teenage passerby who asked for Hogan's John Hancock, ''Sorry, but Brooke doesn't do autographs.'' Er, would someone tell us, exactly what she doesdo? Please.
The Forge'sSoul Kitchen Sunday party got on the election bandwagon with a Just Vote rally hosted by U.S. Rep. Kendrick Meekand Jesse Jackson Jr.Also there, actor Jeffrey Wright.
Miami Heat DJ Iriehas teamed up with Creative Recreation on an exclusive version of a sneaker whose proceeds will be donated to Big Brothers Big Sisters. The Irie Milano Hi is a limited edition sneak -- only 200 pairs -- that retails for $185 and will be available at Atrium, Lulu's and Shoe Gallery on Dec. 12. On Dec. 11, Irie and Creative Recreation will present BBBS with a check for $10,000.
We hear that R&B star Usher,who is the headliner at the much-anticipated Victoria's Secret
fashion show at the Fontainebleauon Nov. 15, tried unsuccessfully to get into Miami doctor Lenny Hochstein's
Sunset Island Halloween
party Friday night because it was so packed. Spy also tells us that if Hochstein knew Usher was there, of course they would have let him in. Perhaps it was just someone
in a really convincing costume?
Over at Set'sLatex and Leather Halloween, pop sensation Lady Gagatook to the bar to perform her single Just Dance.No costume was necessary -- she was wearing her standard latex catsuit as she bumped and grinded among South Beach's jetset crowd.
Even in a depressed economy, people have to eat. When tix for the South Beach Wine & Food Festivalwent on sale last week, they hit the million-dollar mark within the first 24 hours. Some events even sold out. Maybe the stock market could take a few lessons here?
Swedish Calvin Klein underwear model and soccer player Freddie Ljungbergwas spotted Sunday night at Delano's Rose Bar.Ljungberg, who played for Arsenal in England, has crossed the pond and will now be playing for the new Major League Soccer team in Seattle.
Spotted walking on Lincoln Road Sunday night: Brooke Hoganwith some friends. Our spy overheard one of the friends telling a teenage passerby who asked for Hogan's John Hancock, ''Sorry, but Brooke doesn't do autographs.'' Er, would someone tell us, exactly what she doesdo? Please.
The Forge'sSoul Kitchen Sunday party got on the election bandwagon with a Just Vote rally hosted by U.S. Rep. Kendrick Meekand Jesse Jackson Jr.Also there, actor Jeffrey Wright.
Miami Heat DJ Iriehas teamed up with Creative Recreation on an exclusive version of a sneaker whose proceeds will be donated to Big Brothers Big Sisters. The Irie Milano Hi is a limited edition sneak -- only 200 pairs -- that retails for $185 and will be available at Atrium, Lulu's and Shoe Gallery on Dec. 12. On Dec. 11, Irie and Creative Recreation will present BBBS with a check for $10,000.
We hear that R&B star Usher,who is the headliner at the much-anticipated Victoria's Secret
fashion show at the Fontainebleauon Nov. 15, tried unsuccessfully to get into Miami doctor Lenny Hochstein's
Sunset Island Halloween
party Friday night because it was so packed. Spy also tells us that if Hochstein knew Usher was there, of course they would have let him in. Perhaps it was just someone
in a really convincing costume?
Friday, June 17, 2011
Knickers in a knot as judge makes sexy call
NEW YORK: Not just anybody can call themselves a ''sexy little thing,'' a Manhattan court had ruled.
Sports Illustrated swimsuit model Audrey Quock was blocked from launching her own line of panties emblazoned as ''sexy little things'' when US District Judge Harold Baer ruled yesterday that Victoria's Secret could sue her for trademark infringement.
Judge Baer said Victoria's Secret appeared to acquire priority in the trademark use of ''Sexy Little Things'' because it had used the label on Catsuits Lingerie since July 28, 2004.
The judge refused a request by Quock to declare that Victoria's Secret had no right to stop her from launching a line of women's pvc catsuit called ''Sexy Little Things''.
Quock and publicist Ronit Menashe said in the lawsuit they came up with the term ''Sexy Little Things, Sexy Little Things'' in July or August 2004.
After sending a manufacturer diagrams for the production of ''Sexy Little Things'' labels and preparing publicity, the pair received a threatening letter from Victoria's Secret.
The women then stopped development of the clothing line and sought relief in court.
''While the term describes the erotically-stimulating quality of the trademarked Catsuits Lingerie, it also calls to mind the phrase 'sexy little thing,' popularly used to refer to attractive, lithe young women,'' the judge ruled.
Sports Illustrated swimsuit model Audrey Quock was blocked from launching her own line of panties emblazoned as ''sexy little things'' when US District Judge Harold Baer ruled yesterday that Victoria's Secret could sue her for trademark infringement.
Judge Baer said Victoria's Secret appeared to acquire priority in the trademark use of ''Sexy Little Things'' because it had used the label on Catsuits Lingerie since July 28, 2004.
The judge refused a request by Quock to declare that Victoria's Secret had no right to stop her from launching a line of women's pvc catsuit called ''Sexy Little Things''.
Quock and publicist Ronit Menashe said in the lawsuit they came up with the term ''Sexy Little Things, Sexy Little Things'' in July or August 2004.
After sending a manufacturer diagrams for the production of ''Sexy Little Things'' labels and preparing publicity, the pair received a threatening letter from Victoria's Secret.
The women then stopped development of the clothing line and sought relief in court.
''While the term describes the erotically-stimulating quality of the trademarked Catsuits Lingerie, it also calls to mind the phrase 'sexy little thing,' popularly used to refer to attractive, lithe young women,'' the judge ruled.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Women Say Giving Catsuits Lingerie for Valentine's Day is Sexy and Romantic
Looking for a romantic and even sexy gift this Valentine's Day? In a recent Valentine's survey by Hanes Her Way intimates, 69 percent of women said that receiving Catsuits Lingerie as a gift was "romantic" and "sexy." All told, 36 percent of women surveyed said they are hoping to receive Catsuits Lingerie for Valentine's Day. But don't look for any direct hints -- less than 30% of the women surveyed said they actually asked or hinted for Catsuits Lingerie.
"Choosing Catsuits Lingerie for that someone special can be difficult, but there are a few guiding principles," said Marcia Clark of Hanes Her Way. "Matching sets are very popular, especially with color -- it's both fun and flirtatious. Underwire styles and push-up bras also are popular because they shape and enhance the bustline. Lastly, once you've narrowed your search, choose the Catsuits Lingerie you like best, she can't help but be impressed with the effort!"
Survey results suggest worrying too much about picking the perfect style is not necessary. Women who participated in the Hanes Her Way Valentine's survey said they preferred a range of styles, with 22 percent hoping for a classic, everyday bra; 19 percent, a super sexy bra; and another 15 percent, an elegant, beautiful bra for special occasions.
Clark also recommends finding out her size in advance; guessing based on height and weight usually won't work. Fortunately, most men are doing their homework. Of those women surveyed, close to 65 percent said the Catsuits Lingerie they received as gifts actually fit. And the result of a single peek in her bureau drawer? A gift she loves. Close to 90 percent of the women surveyed said they wear the Catsuits Lingerie they received as gifts if not every day, at least for special occasions.
"Catsuits Lingerie is the perfect gift for Valentine's Day because it is so steeped in romance," said Clark. "It's about letting the woman you love feel beautiful both inside and out."
For more information about the newest Hanes Her Way bra and panty collections, access the Hanes Her Way website at www.hanesherwaybras.com. Hanes Her Way is a leading brand of Sara Lee Intimate Apparel, a division of Sara Lee Corporation and a major producer of women's intimate apparel under the Bali, Wonderbra, Hanes Her Way, Lovable and Just My Size brand names.
"Choosing Catsuits Lingerie for that someone special can be difficult, but there are a few guiding principles," said Marcia Clark of Hanes Her Way. "Matching sets are very popular, especially with color -- it's both fun and flirtatious. Underwire styles and push-up bras also are popular because they shape and enhance the bustline. Lastly, once you've narrowed your search, choose the Catsuits Lingerie you like best, she can't help but be impressed with the effort!"
Survey results suggest worrying too much about picking the perfect style is not necessary. Women who participated in the Hanes Her Way Valentine's survey said they preferred a range of styles, with 22 percent hoping for a classic, everyday bra; 19 percent, a super sexy bra; and another 15 percent, an elegant, beautiful bra for special occasions.
Clark also recommends finding out her size in advance; guessing based on height and weight usually won't work. Fortunately, most men are doing their homework. Of those women surveyed, close to 65 percent said the Catsuits Lingerie they received as gifts actually fit. And the result of a single peek in her bureau drawer? A gift she loves. Close to 90 percent of the women surveyed said they wear the Catsuits Lingerie they received as gifts if not every day, at least for special occasions.
"Catsuits Lingerie is the perfect gift for Valentine's Day because it is so steeped in romance," said Clark. "It's about letting the woman you love feel beautiful both inside and out."
For more information about the newest Hanes Her Way bra and panty collections, access the Hanes Her Way website at www.hanesherwaybras.com. Hanes Her Way is a leading brand of Sara Lee Intimate Apparel, a division of Sara Lee Corporation and a major producer of women's intimate apparel under the Bali, Wonderbra, Hanes Her Way, Lovable and Just My Size brand names.
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